The rear is still running off the original E30 sensors and wiring. The use of 1996 (and later) M3 spindles/steering knuckles in combination with 1996 (and later) control arms (and their offset bushings) is required for the front wheels to be closer to the center of the front wheel well AND the alignment to be within factory caster specifications of the E30. Hubs, struts, breaks, shocks and springs of the E36. Why does this work? I took the discs off the E36 318ti rear assemblies and cleaned them up with some emery cloth and carburetor cleaner. The E30 used in this conversion is a late U.S. model: 1990 325is. METHOD 2: HYBRID of E36 M3 and E30 NON-M3 PARTS. This is a very specific set of parts. Very easy to find and to bleed. I recommend to have a basic understanding of what you're working with and understand basics of your Suspension. On one hand, you are able to run lower offset wheels, and some run offset as low as ET20 (most ET23) with stretched tires and rolled fenders. Again, with random pullers and chisels and such, I was able to get the old sub-frame bushings out. There are several ways of doing this conversion: This conversion requires no imagination, as it is a bolt-on. Cons:expensive and rare. 1. The new discs went on with the set screws and the calipers followed with pads. You MUST use 96+ E36 M3 control arms and offset CABs (Control Arm Bushings). This swap/conversion is called many things: E30 4-lug to 5-lug; E30 4x100 to 5x120; E36 M3 and Z3 / 318ti swap; E30 5-lug conversion; E30 5-lug swap; E30 5-stud conversion; E30 5-stud swap; simply E30 5-lug; etc. The sensors are just spaced out, about the thickness of five copper crush gaskets. The front ABS sensors from the E36 M3 can be spliced into the E30 system. Grinding the slots into the sub-frame brackets was real torture and required many different tools from files to metal saws to a Dremel. You Need: trailing arms, brakes. The brown E36 wire is left disconnected. This is a very crucial part of your suspension and you do not want to take chances. You better have a very good relationship with the seller if buying used. Cons: expensive (easy $1000) and rare to find. Urethane subframe, diff, trailing arm, control arm bushings, http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=5-Lug_Conversion&oldid=32405. Alignment sheet to come soon. This guide focuses on these swap options. In order to increase the size of the break discs up to the 325 mm the calipers, caliper holders and discs have to be changed by the ones of an 330 e46 either petrol or diesel. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412. Bolt on ANY E36 (non-M) or ANY Z3 (non-M) rear brake calipers and carrier brackets. Parts List: I was stoked to say the least. Welcome. This setup allows for E36/E46 fitment wheels (approximately et41 @ 7.5" width). Simply install the rear hub and discs from any 2.5L, 2.8L, or 3.0L (6 cylinder) Z3. Tools Needed: They came out decent for my first real welding project; they are nothing to be too proud of, but they should hold. The discs (both the used rears and new fronts) were then painted with some high heat, low gloss black paint. I hit them with cleaner, followed by red caliper paint, and let them sit for a few days. This information should apply to most U.S. E30s made after 1985 (as they share the same rear trailing arm assembly specifications). Right to left and left to right, makes them bolt right up. This conversion requires no imagination, as it is a bolt-on. Only a slight improvement in brakes. Pros: wide selection of wheels from street to racing applications. Bonus of Z3 hubs, you can easily run many e36/e46 staggered wheels and not shy away for putting a lot of meat (tire) on them. The new cables were a bit tight going into the back of the brake assembly, so I had to sand them and make them press in all the way with a little hammer-and-punch action. Cons: smaller rear wheel bearing. I've made two sets, one is for DD/Eibach Pro-Kit and one for coil-overs. Pros: ability to run stock-offset wheels 15" and up. The shocks unbolted and let things fully drop. The differential came off after removing the exhaust and axles (lots of allens and a brass drift to punch the axles out after taking the axle nuts off). FIT ON BMW E30 (318, 325, i, is, e, es) and more ! They came out pretty nice. The trailing arms, brakes (calipers, discs, heat/dust shields, etc. A significant improvement in brakes. A slight improvement in brakes. Used 34mm caliper piston. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. The trailing arms, brakes (calipers, discs, heat/dust shields, etc. E36 use 3-wire ABS sensors, while e30's use 2-wire. 245/40-17 comfortably fits under rear quarter panel on wheels ET41-ET50. This method is likely the most costly and the most difficult for which to obtain parts. When doing the conversion with parts of an E36 in its most basic version the front brakes are increased from 260 mm to 286 mm and the rear brakes from 258 mm to 272 mm. Prices on these start at $170 for Bilstein Sports each, and that’s “STARTING AT” on eBay. Why does this work? This site is intended to be used as a reliable reference, and as such, information here is subject to updates and changes. The MZ3 (etc.) On one hand there is a bigger market of rims in 5x120 than in the 4x100 that comes as standard and on the other hand the brakes size is increased. In any case if the M3 e36 321 arms are not used, there is a new special version of the mounts that gives even more advance in order to be able to do the conversion with the normal arms. No need to find rare parts at the junkyard. For more information about these mounts you can contact us using the following link: Contact. 2. e30 Ball Joints. New ones are expensive. Proper size rear wheel bearing. You DON'T Need: anything else. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. I used camber plates to fix caster just enough to reduce rub. TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. Uses 32mm caliper piston. Do you want to do a 5 lugs conversion on your 4 lug e30 by using e36 5 lug but there you have a problem … Rear Perch style? To remove the old cable you have to pull out the rear piece of the E30 center console to get to the mounting hardware… it's really easy and self-explanatory. I was able to come up with a more affordable solution and at the same time allow affordable strut insert replacement in the future. 84-85 318i models had drum brakes and had no provisions for calipers. Since I am using their camber and toe weld-on kits, I had to chop part of the new green bushings' lips off to make room for the hardware and wrenches. In this last case it is important to use rims of at least 17 inches so that the break discs can fit. NOTE: this method yields about 5mm more fender clearance if used with the same wheels as Method 2, so a SLIGHTLY lower offset wheel may be used. This setup allows for E36/E46 fitment wheels (approximately et41 @ 7.5" width). FIT ON BMW E30 ( 318, 325, i, is, e, es ) and more ! Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. I had to grind the right hole wider and grind down a cheap socket to get the strut shaft's nut fully tightened with the impact gun. -BMW wheels, Radial Spoke Style 32, 17x7.5 et41 (36111091869), -215/40/ZR17 BFGoodrich G-Force Sport tires, -'97 E36 M3 complete front strut and brake aseemblies (USED), -'97 318ti complete rear trailing arm and brake assemblies (USED), -Ireland Engineering E30/Z3 rear camber/toe adjustments kits (02adjrt + e30adjsf), -I.E. Awhile back I was informed that the correct method to splice in the front E36 M3 sensors is to match the colors straight across and leave the extra wire out: black to black, brown to brown, yellow disconnected. You've been warned. It's very easy to lose count and spend more money than your E30 is worth. With some huge pliers and grease, we got the 318ti arms onto my sub-frame and got all the hardware on for the camber/toe adjusters. Or just better BMW wheel options ? Improvement. 325is) share the same spring diameter! Cons: expensive and rare. These TAs use small 72mm bearings (like 318ti and Z3(I4)). After all the cleaning and painting and such were done, we started pulling the rear of my car apart. I spent $72 on Lemforders at Carquest (WorldPAC). This also maintains the original required wheel offset. I used a long nut and bolt and big washer setup to really pull them and the steel shafts into place. The break lines of the e30 are fully compatible with the new pieces so there is no problem in this sense. While I was in there, I also put in new E30 parking brake cables. Significance of getting M3 hubs is, that hubs are same height as standard e30 hub, which results in ET0 additional offset. Makes sure rotors and calipers are in good shape, if you're installing used parts. This kit will easily complete your 5 lug conversion on your E30. I soldered it all and wrapped it up with heat shrink tubing, etc. ), and hubs as one complete assembly will bolt right on to the E30 subframe. That difference is due to the height of the hub itself. The black E36 wire went to the black E30 wire. Very often, you see people debate on what offset wheels they car run, and this debate is largely due to this very significant difference. 318ti hub is 5mm shorter, than Z3 hub. This method allows the original rear E30 ABS sensors to remain untouched. ABS is untouched. The sway-bars disconnected easily. BMW E36 on E30 Kit (5 lug Swap) E3036. The new '97 control arms have the same diameter rear shaft as the E30 ones; they fit right into the E30 control arm bushings. Very important to have right control arms for front caster to be correct. Make sure spindles you're getting have good bearings and donor car hasn't been smashed in the front. The following is a guide to converting a1990 (or any U.S. 1986+) BMW E30 from 4-lug (4x100mm bolt pattern) to 5-lug (5x120mm bolt pattern). FRONT: REAR: Do quick math and you'll see that final offset of using MZ3 rear results in ET40 final result. This applies to all suspension parts. If using E36 calipers, they need to be swapped (right to left and left to right) in order for the brake lines to fit properly. I then cleaned up all the calipers and mounting brackets (caliper carriers) in the cleaning tank with a steel brush and some elbow grease. http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194 I've seen people drill new holes for strut mounts right in the strut tower. Think smart, think ahead. The MZ3 output flanges are also required to attach the MZ3 axle shafts to the E30 differential. I also took the opportunity to beef up with rear sway-bar mounting tabs with my amateur welding skills. Alignment within factory E30 specifications AND improved rear toe. Enormous rear brakes. The new Ireland Engineering hyper green urethane bushings just slide in firmly (a rubber mallet may be your friend). A tranny hoist can be your friend as well. Learn more. Method 2: COMPLETE E36 318ti TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY. To answer all basic questions about this option: Color-match the wires and cap off extra wire. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. This method uses a SLIGHTLY smaller wheel bearing design than the E30. Link bellow will take you through my E36 M3 strut build. Bolts right up. Notice camber plate and where shock is mounted. All of that was then mounted onto the new E36 M3 struts.

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